One thing led to another and we began shopping. Ultimately (after much wandering) we ending up at Le Bon Marché which, it seems, is the last bastion of French Department store coolness. We were disappointed twice earlier since our arrival in Paris.
We were disappointed first the day after we arrived when we bee-lined to BHV (Bazaar Hotel du Ville) to buy stuff for our apartment. It used to be an inexpensive department store with sort of a home furnishings bent. You could buy a 2x4 on the 6th floor if you needed one.
Well, it has now been purchased by the massive French Department Store conglomerate Galleries Lafayette. They have really moved BHV upscale and mainstream, with a much more conventional product line. Yeah, you can still buy wall paint and door knobs, but it is not the same and prices are higher.
The second disappointment was discovering that the historic landmark “La Samaritaine” – across the river from the Notre Dame – has remained closed since 2005. It was an 11 storey Department Store with a great (free) viewing platform on the roof. Apparently the building doesn’t meet some sort of safety codes, Galleries Lafayette has bought a share, and the original family and Galleries Lafayette have been locked in a big feud about what to do. Boo, hiss. It was a really cool building with riveted iron structure etc. It may never open again.
This all comes down to “conglomeration” to a few controlling companies. Soon, I fear, the mega French conglomerate LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey) will buy them all up and turn every department store in Paris into Pottery Barn / Restoration Hardware / GAP / Antropologie look-alikes.
… Anywhoo, so much for the rant. The world changes. It’s nice to see that La Bon Marché is still almost the same. It’s still got a large button department (sewing) and sells men’s socks so colorful they are weird. Gone though, are the old kiosks on the top floor with antique pens, watches, bird cages and other old crap. It was cool to look at, but I would never buy any of it. I guess no one else did either.
Antique wristwatches are still available but have moved to jewelry cases. A beautiful 1950 Breitling chronometer (6,900 €) really caught my eye. I would buy that (… if I had an extra 6,900 € lying around).
We’re saving a visit to the “Louvre des Antiquaires” mall for when our guests arrive. You used to be able to buy stuff like flint lock muskets and authentic Louis XIV era furniture there (for eye popping prices). Hopefully it hasn’t changed to “Antiquities by Ralph Lauren”. We shall see.
After lunch, we split. I spent the afternoon at Bibliothèque Forney reading and writing. It is such a beautiful old building and such a traditional library. The long tables were filled with other patrons, reading and writing. It was very pleasant. I am currently reading (a translation of) Jean-Jacques Rousseau’s 1762 treatise “The Social Contract”, appropriate to read in Paris. Everyone else seemed to be reading foot high piles of books on fashion and design.
Tonight we dined at Brasserie Lipp. It’s a famous place on the Left Bank, previously frequented by Hemmingway, Scott-Fitzgerald etc. We had Kir Royales, more wine and some food. Quite pleasant, although I had to empty my wallet to get back out the door.
Now I have an hour before bed to try to figure out the problem with my camera.
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